That’s a crochet daisy (or sunflower) granny square pattern — it has long loop petals and a tightly stitched center. 🌻
Here’s a step-by-step guide to make it:
Materials & gauge
- Yarn: DK / light worsted (or similar). If using finer yarn, use a smaller hook.
- Suggested: DK weight yarn for flower body, contrasting color for square border.
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E) — adjust to get a firm center but flexible loops.
- Small amount of brown yarn for the tiny center eye (or you can embroider it).
- Tapestry needle, scissors, optional stitch marker.
- Abbreviations: MR = magic ring, ch = chain, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, dc = double crochet.

Overview of structure
- Small brown center “eye”
- Green circle around the eye (two rounds)
- Loop petals attached around the green round (16 loops)
- A round of single crochet to tidy petal bases
- White border worked into a square (corners and sides)
Pattern — 16-petal version
CENTER EYE (brown)
- MR, 6 sc into MR. Pull tight. (6)
- Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off brown and change to green yarn.
Small note: 6 sc gives a compact center eye similar to the photo. If you want a slightly larger eye, start with 8 sc and proceed the same.

GREEN ROUNDS (to make the disk under petals)
- With green attached to any stitch of the brown round: Round 1 (green): 2 sc in each stitch around. (6 × 2 = 12 sc). Join with sl st.
- Round 2 (green): sc in each st around (12 sc). Join with sl st.
- Round 3 (green) — optional beef up: If you want a thicker green disk, do 1 sc in each st again (12 sc). Fasten off green (or leave attached if you prefer).
This produces a solid small disk about the size shown in the photo.
LOOP PETALS (yellow / petal color)
We’ll make 16 loop petals. The loop length below matches the photo; change length to suit your taste.
- Attach petal color in the back loop or at the base of any green stitch. Optional: place a marker in the stitch you attach to so you don’t lose your starting point.
- Work the petals around the green disk like this:
- Ch 12, skip 1 green stitch, insert hook into the next green stitch and sl st (or sl st in same stitch as explained below) to secure the chain forming a loop.
- Repeat ch 12, sl st in next stitch until you have 16 loops total.
Important detail: There are two common ways to anchor loops:
- (A) Anchor into the next stitch: ch 12, insert into next green stitch, sl st — this will give one loop per green stitch and cause the loops to sit between foundation stitches.
- (B) Anchor into same stitch as base: ch 12, insert into the same stitch you started the chain, sl st — this makes the loop sit directly above a base stitch.
Either method works; the photo-style look typically uses method (A).
After completing the round you should have 16 wide chain loops evenly spaced.

TIDY THE LOOPS (secure them and make a clean petal base)
- Turn your work to the back (optional) or stay on the front depending on how you like the look. With the petal color still on the hook, work 1 sc in each green stitch around the base (12 sc if you used 12 green stitches, but because we made 16 loops we spaced them across the green — if you used 12 green stitches and made 16 loops you’ll need to space them, so the tidy round is “sc into the st or between st where loops are anchored” — the goal: 1 sc at each loop base). Count carefully: you should have 16 sc around the loop bases (one sc under each loop). Join with sl st, fasten off or carry yarn.
- Optional decorative round: sc, ch1 around or make tiny slip-stitch picots between petals to mimic the little green picot look in the photo: (sc in base, ch1) repeat around, join.
Optional: Add a little raised brown button/eye
If you want the raised brown center like the image:
- With brown yarn and smaller hook or embroidery, use 6-dc bobble worked into the very center before you joined the green — or simply embroider a small knot: wrap brown yarn several times around your finger to make a small coil, sew it in place in the center and stitch securely. This gives the little brown “eye” highlight.

TURNING INTO A SQUARE (white border)
We’ll convert the circular flower into a 10 cm-ish granny square by spacing corners evenly.
- Attach white yarn on the back of a petal base stitch (or in any sc between petals). You will work 4 sides with 4 corners. Each side will use groups of dc to form a square.
- Round for square (worked in the round; counts are approximate because loop spacing may vary — I give a stable method):
- Start: ch 1 (counts as no stitch), sc into same stitch to anchor.
- For the first corner: ch 3, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the same spot (this is corner cluster).
- Now work along side: skip 1 or 2 small stitches as needed, then 3 dc into the space between petal bases for a short side cluster, ch 1 between clusters. Continue across until you reach the next corner point.
- At the next corner position (you want 4 roughly even corners — place them every 4 loops for 16 loops), do (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) again.
- Continue around to form 4 sides. Join with sl st and fasten off.
Exact placement rule: With 16 loops, make corners after loops 4, 8, 12, and 16 (i.e., every 4 loops) so the square is even.
- Optional second round of white: On each side between corners work 3 dc, ch1, 3 dc to widen the square, or simply do 1 round of dc in each stitch with ch-1 spaces at corners to square up. Block the square to perfect the shape.
Finishing
- Weave in ends with tapestry needle on the back.
- Gently steam-block or wet-block to open the loops and shape the square. Pin to measurements while drying for a neat square.
- If loops are too floppy, use a slightly smaller hook size for the chains next time or add a tiny slip-stitch stitch across the top of each loop (invisible from the front) to reduce stretch.
Variations & tips
- Number of petals: For a fuller flower use 24 loops (space them across a wider initial green round by increasing initial green rounds to 12 or 24 sts). To convert to 24 loops: make Round2 green = 12 → Round3 increase to 24 sc, then ch-loop into each stitch for 24 petals.
- Loop length: ch10 → shorter petals; ch14–16 → longer petals.
- Petal fullness: make two rounds of loops (one loop between each existing loop) to create a double-row petal look.
- Yarn & hook: tighter hook = neater center; looser hook = softer, bigger petals.